Before we headed to Adelaide, we had a tip
from friends that the morning was the best time to see Adelaide Zoo’s pandas (the
only giant pandas in Australia). We pre-booked the tickets for the first
session at 9.45am and made sure we were there on time. The pandas are really
worth the effort (and they were really active in the morning). The Adelaide zoo
is an older style zoo and most of its residents have clearly been there a long
time. I’m pretty sure the giraffes, meerkats and penguins were posing for
photos. The zoo is not that big and you can see most of the animals in a couple
of hours. The best thing is that the zoo is shady and pleasant to walk around
on a hot summer’s day. There was also a big surprise. The zoo has two
flamingoes which are more than 100 years old. As they are now a protected
species, once these two die, it’s unlikely you will be able to see flamingoes in
Australia after that. They live for about a hundred years and although these
two aren’t at the mercy of predators, they are going to die at some stage. Once
we had a walk around the zoo – seals, penguins, lions, flamingoes, cassowary –
we had to go to the panda shop, where I purchased (for my tacky traveling
collection) a Japanese-style furry panda purse and a panda cube – a rubik’s cube
with pics of the pandas on it. [Real Wild Child – Iggy Pop & the Stooges –
another cover (and the rage soundtrack for about 20 years) – Iggy didn’t play
it at the Big Day Out – may have been an education for some of the youngsters
if he had.]
After the zoo, it was time for brunch. We
took a stroll through the business district and came across a really simple
takeaway that did bacon and eggs with coffee for about $10. After brunch I
headed back to the hotel to do some blogging and chill while TC hit the shops.
He found an awesome anime shop – Shin Tokyo, which stocked model kits and other
assorted wares. As the mercury was going to hit close to 40, we decided there
was no one we really wanted to spend 12 hours in the heat to watch at the Big
Day Out. Our plan was to go about 4.30pm. TC came back from shopping and had a
siesta. The problem with our plan was that we weren’t really organized beyond
leaving about 4.30pm.
We ventured out about 5.30 to catch a bus
to the showground. TC went past the car to get his smaller camera, except he
realised once we got to the carpark that he didn’t have the car keys. Of course
at this point I realised I didn’t have the Big Day Out tickets either.
Fortunately we could retrieve both from our hotel room. We then wandered up
towards Rundle Mall to catch a bus to the showground, which was a) packed and
b) dropped us off at the side of the showground. We wandered 10 minutes in the
wrong direction but fortunately changed direction before we did an entire lap
of the showground. We made it in time to see (most of) Iggy’s set. He got panned in Sydney but I thought he and
the Stooges were great. Loads of energy and chaos – just how you expect old
skool punk rockers to be. The years have not been kind to Iggy and he probably
should have reconsidered having himself shown 50 foot tall on a video screen
next to the stage. From a distance, far back in the crowd, he looks pretty fit.
On the screen, it’s clear he is old and scraggy and his skin is sagging off his
bones. The only saving grace was that it wasn’t in high def.
The Adelaide Showground is a great Big Day
Out venue, a lot like the old Sydney Showground at Moore Par4k, only smaller
and with way less people. Plenty of pavilions, ways to escape from the sun and
most importantly, character. There was even a highlight for the oldies (apart
from the roster of pre-2000 bands). There was an express wristbanding queue for
the over 30s. About time. The first time you get carded when you are old enough
to have kids who can legally drink is a compliment. The fifth, it’s just
completely annoying. Thanks BDO for recognising that those of us that attended
the first few might still want to come occasionally. Paradoxically, and in
contrast to my BDO attendance in the 90s, this was my only alcohol-free day on
our holiday. I guess when you get used to the good stuff, you just can’t face
going back to VB or UDLs. There was a cocktail bar but they appeared to be of
the slushy variety.
After Iggy, we witnessed the spectacle that
is Rammstein. Well known for their pyrotechnics, they are also play a fiercely
pounding industrial set that’s not for the feint hearted. They were very tight,
fully flamed and played my two faves (possibly predictably) Du Hast and Links
234. Not wanting to miss Tool (my main reason for buying tix) we headed to the
food stalls. Unlike the Sydney BDO which is awash with multicultural fare (like
the city itself, the choices at Adelaide were limited. Burgers, baked potatoes,
hot dogs, and of course Vili dogs. I made like the locals and grabbed a Vili
dog and a coleslaw baked potato.
We headed back the main arena and settled
in the stands for Tool. You don’t need to stand for Tool, you just need to be
immersed – immersed in the spectacular visual display so the shy and retiring
Maynard Keenan can be silhouetted on stage, immersed in the all encompassing,
multi-layered soundscape. The only problem was there was a really pissed couple
in front of us who just wouldn’t shut up. Admittedly, I’m not too keen an
jibber-jabber at gigs at the best of times (or for that matter out of tune
warblers) but when it comes to artist like Tool or the doves where losing
yourself in the soundscape is the only way to experience it properly, it’s just
downright rude. [Stinkfist – Tool. I still remember the first time I saw them.
A sweaty winter’s night at the ANU bar – where even the refectory couldn’t make
them sound bad.]
We took a break from Tool to check out
Grinderman, a Nick Cave Project which actually includes most of the Bad Seeds.
It’s Cave at his shambolic and chaotic best – part punk, part art school, part
grunge. It’s like The Birthday Party with more speed and bottom end. It’s what
Nick the Stripper would have sounded like if it had have come after speed
metal, hardcore punk rock and grunge. I loved the chaos of it. TC didn’t.
After a good dose of Nick, we headed back
to the main stage for the end of Tool’s set and the encore. Somewhat
predictably the set closed with Stinkfist. Although admittedly it did manage to
create the perfect crescendo. On the way out, we stopped for T-Shirts. I had to
have the Iggy one (with wings on the front and a map of Australia shaped flag
on the back. TC, who swore he’d never own a Tool T-shirt was so impressed, he
bought one that (pun intended) doesn’t make him look like a tool.
As we left the main arena, heaps of guys
were pulling out counterfeit Tool tour t-shirts to sell. It was kind of satisfying
to see them get arrested. Not that I don’t support the entrepeneurial spirit but
all bands should be allowed to make money from their work, whether that’s
through their CDs, live shows or merch. Many mid size bands make more from
their merch than anything else. [Nick The Stripper – The Birthday Party – avant
garde chaotic Nick. Not my first introduction to Nick but one of my faves.]
Model shops and pawn shops – 6, Big Things
– 12